Travelling addicts musings

Travelling addicts musings

Monday, 23 February 2015

Mahabalipuram/Mammallapuram - Heritage village by the sea - Part 2

After a beautiful Saturday , set the alarm for 5 AM. Bit difficult for me being an evening person but once done- worth the trouble. Checked the time for sunrise- which was about 6:30 AM. Nice cup of hot  tea made by hubby and I was all set for the day. The target for morning was to capture some sunrise shot...but alas the sun played hide and seek as it was cloudy..so was able to capture some shots only much later. Sharing the morning shots :










So sunrise photography out of the way, the plan was to visit the following in the day:

1. Arjuna's Pennance
2. Krishna's butterball
3. Light house and cave temple
4. Five Rathas

First three are in the same vicinity and can be visited together and later you could target the 5 Rathas.

There is no ticket for first three, but i think the same ticket is usable for both 5 Rathas and Shore temple.

Arjuna's Pennance :

This is an enormous relief made on 2 huge boulders. This qualifies for the biggest open air bas relief in the world. and it is truly mesmerizing. This is 31 m long and 9 m high. The carvings show the  most amazing and natural renditions of animals. It depicts one of the scenes from Mahabharta- Arjuna doing penance to obtain a special weapon for the Kurukshetra war.





Next we headed to Krishna's Butter ball..which for me was surely a photo-op. The butter ball surely defies gravity but if it decides otherwise I would be crushed to a pulp. Reminding me of those toons which show smashed flat on the surface :).






Area around the butter ball :















This is Krishna Mandapam. It has the figure of cow being milked.




From here we headed for the caves and the Lighthouse area:



There are 9 rock cut temples. This cave contrasts the Goddess fighting a demon on one side and Lord Vishnu's sleep on the other.











Last but not the least on the route were the 5 Rathas, Here there are 5 monolithic chariots dedicated to Hindu gods. The five rathas are actually a set of temples or vimanas devoted to the 5 Pandava brothers and their wife Draupadi, each built out of single rock.

















The 5 Rathas are set in a sea of sand..adding to the charm of the place. Beautiful journey came to and end and we headed back home.

Mahabalipuram/Mammallapuram - Heritage village by the sea - Part 1

                The drive to visit Mahabalipuram arose as the sculptures here are monolithic . This coupled with the fact that it is bang on the Bay of Bengal makes it an irresistible package. This is an ancient seaport named after Mammala, the Pallava ruler who set up his capital here and  created many marvellous monuments with sculptural panels, caves,  monolithic rathas and temples. Sounds enchanting- believe me they are!!

                 This heritage village by the sea is about 330 km from Bangalore- which made it a weekend getaway for me. It can be a day trip for Chennai folks- barely 60 kms away.

                 Started my journey early at about 5:45 am on a Saturday morning. Took the Hoskote- Chittor-Kanchipuram- Chengalpattu route. Traffic was manageable. The road pretty good with only 2 toll stops. There is also an entry fee (Rs 40) at Mahabs (local call it this).
             
                 There are plenty of staying options in this town ranging from budget to high end. First thing I wanted to do is book a hotel room overlooking the sea and eat some lunch.
We found a guest house bang on the sea where the balcony overlooked the sea. They also had a roof top restaurant . The rooms were very basic but clean. Cost was Rs 900 (non-ac) .
               Lunch was simple for me. Some fish curry and rice. chicken roast with potatoes. I skipped the rice (trying to loose some weight!!)

Roof top restaurant


Fresh local produce can be cooked



After getting the room and eating light lunch, the Plan was as follows:

Saturday :  1.  Shore temple visit
                   2. Enjoy the beach in the evening

SHORE TEMPLE : The shore temple is an amazing sight on the edge of the sea where the waves can sweep right in.  It signifies the peak of Pallava art and architecture (Dravadian style). It was built during the reign of Rajasimha in the 7th century AD. This structure is built of stone rather than being cut out of stone (granite) .It is speculated that this temple was created as work of art rather than as a place of worship. The shore temple is listed in the UNESCO world heritage sites of India.

The Tsunami of December 2004 that struck the coastline of Coromandel laid bare an old temple built of granite rocks. This has renewed speculation that Mahabalipuram was a part of the Seven Pagodas described in the diaries of Europeans. As the temple foundation is on hard granite rock it could sustain the Tsunami waves, The groynes erected around the temple area also aided in its protection.











I returned to our guest house and looked forward to enjoying the beach in the evening. We had a cup of tea in our balcony overlooking the sea with Shore temple in the backdrop. By now an amazing breeze was blowing. I felt truly blessed and at total peace with the world (nature has that impact on us)

Following are some shots taken from my balcony and then frolicking on the beach. Also the market in which the guest house was located stored some cotton beach wear, leather footwear, the ubiquitous granite and soapstone artifacts. Could see hoard of foreign tourists far outnumbering Indian- kind of reminded of Mcleodganj/Dharamshala area (HP). 



















Guest house details:
Santana Guest House
# 178, Othavadai Street , Fishermen Colony,
Mamallapuram 603104